[2022 가이드] 자동차 디테일링 초보자 가이드(프로처럼)

물론, 당신은 당신의 차를 전문 디테일러에게 맡길 수 있습니다. 그러면 그들은 그 승차감에 가치 있는 빛을 줄 것입니다. 이 방법은 차량을 판매할 계획이거나 가끔씩만 운전한 후 흠 없는 차고에 주차할 계획이라면 실제로 매우 유용합니다.

그러나 당신이 완전히 짐을 싣지 않는 한, 전문적인 자동차 디테일링의 가격은 정말 빠르게 추가될 것입니다. 가격은 또한 해당 차량의 크기와 필요한 세부 사항의 수준에 따라 다릅니다. 예를 들어, 평균 크기의 세단에 대한 기본 세부 정보 서비스는 $75-150 정도의 비용이 드는 반면 대형 차량은 동일한 서비스에 대해 일반적으로 $125-250 범위입니다.

집에서 이 똑같은 차량을 자세히 설명한다면 고급 인테리어 및 휠 청소 제품을 포함한 모든 재료와 도구에 100달러 미만을 지출할 것입니다. 이것은 상당한 것처럼 보일 수 있지만 이러한 제품과 도구를 계속해서 재사용할 수 있으며 자주 사용하면 시간이 지남에 따라 프로세스가 훨씬 덜 집중될 수 있음을 명심하십시오.

취향에 따라 수정하거나 대체할 수 있는 초보자를 위한 필수 자동차 디테일링 아이템 목록을 다음과 같이 정리했습니다. 그것은 당신의 차량과 당신의 돈이라는 것을 기억하십시오. 따라서 당신의 자동차에 가장 적합하다고 생각되는 것을 선택하십시오.

필요한 항목은 다음과 같습니다.

간단한 참고 사항: 포틀랜드에서 포르쉐를 자세히 설명하는 것은 신시내티에서 Chevelle를 문지르는 것과는 상당히 다를 것입니다. 세계의 모든 지역에는 고유한 오염 물질, 수원 및 환경 문제가 있어 자동차가 더러워지는 방식과 차를 청소하는 방식에 영향을 줄 수 있습니다.

최고의 자동차 디테일링 용품을 찾기 위한 팁

위에서 언급했듯이 단순히 세차장에 차를 가져가는 것만으로는 김치를 자르지 않을 것입니다. 특히 나쁜 놈처럼 자세히 설명하려는 경우에는 더욱 그렇습니다. 자동차 디테일링에는 올바른 자동차 관리 및 디테일링 도구가 필요합니다. 그 중 많은 부분이 자동차의 특정 측면을 청소, 복원 및 향상시키기 위해 특별히 설계되었기 때문입니다. 이러한 매우 필요한 항목을 얻으려면 디테일링 키트를 구입하거나 "단품" 접근 방식을 완료하는 것이 좋습니다.

까다로운 부분은 특히 가격대와 방대한 양의 온라인 리뷰가 방정식에 포함될 때 가장 좋은 공급품을 결정하는 것입니다. 이쯤 되면 "잠깐만요. 극세사 타월, 빨래 미트, 타이어 드레싱 제품은 다 같은 것 아닙니까?"라고 생각할 수 있습니다. 곧 발견하게 될 대답은 확고한 "예"와 반항적인 "아니오"입니다.

Chemical Guys, Meguiar's, Turtle Wax, Mother's와 같은 회사와 함께 자동차 디테일링 분야에는 여러 눈에 띄는 브랜드가 있습니다. However, finding the right clay bar, buffing pad, drying towel, wash mitt, shampoo, or any number of other car care product is going to require a little bit of legwork on your end.

Generally speaking, you'll want to focus on the following two categories when it comes to detailing the exterior of an automobile:

• Vehicle Exterior Detailing Supplies
• Wheel and Tire Cleaning Supplies

The Key to Buying Quality Exterior Car Cleaning Supplies

While it might seem logical to purchase your auto detailing supplies from the auto parts store down the street, the brick-and-mortar method is not always the best idea. The same can be said for heavy duty car cleaning products, for oftentimes, a gentle approach returns the greatest results.

Purchasing the right car detailing supplies doesn't mean buying the first thing you see at the auto parts store that's advertised to "Kick Ass, or Your Money Back!" Instead, it means taking the time, and researching the ever loving shit out of a series of competing products in order to determine which one works best. Something that's going to remove road grime and hard to penetrate items like bug splatter and baked-on bird shit, but not eat into your clear coat or scratch the surface. Buying the best means researching the rest, because you don't want to be that nincompoop that just stripped half of his clear coat off by using the wrong product.

How to Wash Your Vehicle the Right Way

Contrary to common belief, you don't necessarily have to wash your vehicle every week. Every time you set out to scrub your automobile, the chance of damaging its exterior surfaces increases exponentially, especially if you are new to the whole hand-wash approach, or are using the wrong approach. Naturally, this has quite a bit to do with how filthy your vehicle gets on a weekly basis, as well as what sort of driving environment it encounters when in operation.

Disclaimer complete, here's a general rundown of what needs to happen in order for that ride of yours to get a safe scrubbing.

Step 1:Get Your Shit Together

Cleaning accoutrements acquired and inventoried, move everything you plan on using to the area where the vehicle will be cleaned. By this point your two-buckets-and-a-beer setup should be ready, with the first bucket being set aside for rinsing the dirty wash mitt or cloth, and the second, soapy H2O solution, being reserved for dunking. (We suggest cracking open that beer at this point to guarantee adequate human hydration as well.)

You'll also want to make sure that you have a plethora of microfiber cloths on hand, two or three wash mitts, a gentle scrubbing brush for the wheels and tires, and a garden hose with a sprayer wand. It's also a good idea to make sure that you are using a neutral water source, because using the wrong tap water can cause all kinds of harm. If you are unfamiliar with this "soggy subject," be sure to read our blog article pertaining to the topic of reducing the risk of contaminated water spots prior to proceeding.

Quick Tip: Remove any accessories on your person that may scratch or damage the vehicle's various surfaces. This means belts, long necklaces, bracelets and watches, rings, fanny packs, chastity belts, and monocles should all be removed prior to detailing the vehicle.

Step 2:Spray It Like You Mean It

Spray your vehicle with water until any visible debris, pollen, bird poo, or other form of filth has been rinsed away, always remembering to avoid direct sunlight at all costs. You’ll also want to spray the entire automobile in one session, beginning with the top and working your way downward. The only time you would start on a lower portion of the vehicle would be if its wheels and tires were extremely filthy, at which point you would blast those first to prevent grime from splattering onto freshly rinsed surrounding areas.

Unfortunately, this initial rinse stage is often neglected as many people will rush straight to the scrubbing, which results in surface contaminants being pushed across the clear coat and glass, thus causing significant surface damage. A quick spray-down will help minimize the development of swirl marks and scratches.

Step 3:Hit Those Rollers and Rubber First

Wheels and tires tend to be the dirtiest part of a car due to all of the asphalt grime, road salt, brake dust, mud, and various other forms of contaminant coming into close proximity to their rotating surfaces. This is why it is imperative that you clean all four of these corners first, especially if the vehicle has not been detailed in a while, or if you have just returned from a hardcore 4x4 mud-slinging adventure.

Simply apply a spray-on, rinse-off tire and wheel cleaner. And after letting the stuff sit for the recommended period of time, hose everything off before scrubbing your tires in a circular motion to remove any stubborn grime. Here, a sudsy wheel sponge or brush will help, especially if it is smaller, and allows you to access hard-to-reach areas within the alloy wheel itself.

Quick Tip: Always rinse-out your wheel wash bucket thoroughly before using it for another area of the automobile regular wash. Wheel and tire contaminants are typically the filthiest stuff you will find on an automobile outside of engine bay grime and undercarriage contaminants.

Step 4:Two-Buckets-and-a-Beer Time!

After dumping the manufacturer's recommended dollop of car shampoo into one of the buckets, run water in both it, and your rinse bucket, all while sipping on your favorite brewskie. Once filled, break-out the wash mitt or microfiber cloth you plan on using, and follow these simple steps.

1. Spray the entire vehicle with water to guarantee that all surfaces are devoid of loose contaminants.
2. Soak the wash mitt or cloth in the soapy water solution Once fully saturated, wring it out over the surface you wish to scrub. This acts like a pre-soak, adding further lubrication to the surface, and allows the shampoo to loosen any gunk stuck on the surface.
3. After the entire area is coated in sudsy water, begin scrubbing the vehicle, focusing on one section at a time. Remember to always start with the roof and work your way down, routinely dunking your mitt in the rinse bucket as you go to remove contaminants, before absorbing more sudsy water as needed.
4. As you scrub, be sure to wash in straight, overlapping lines, as opposed to circles, which can cause swirl marks to surface. Be gentle during this first pass, as you will likely pick-up a shit-ton of debris during this initial scrubbing session, and you want to avoid grinding it into the glass or clear coat.
5. Depending on how filthy the vehicle is, you may notice that the water in the rinse bucket has become cloudy, or tainted with grime rather quickly. If this is the case, throw the contaminated water out and refill the bucket with clean water. It is not a bad idea to inspect the quality of the soapy H20 bucket as well, because even with a preliminary rinse bucket in play, deeply embedded contaminants can still end up in this sudsy solution.
6. After one section or body panel is scrubbed, rinse it off with the hose or pressure washer before moving on to the next area. Be sure to move quickly to prevent the soap from drying out, and as you rinse, use a top to bottom approach. By keeping the entire vehicle wet at all times, you will prevent water spots from forming, and soap residue from hardening on the surface.
7. First scrub and rinse session complete, you will be able to ascertain what stubborn spots will require some additional "coaxing" in order to be safely lifted from the surface. While some people swear by the quick and easy chemical "bug and tar remover" method, others insist that taking the slow and soapy approach is safest. Whichever technique you choose, be sure to take care when dealing with sticky, or deeply embedded contaminants, for this is when surface marring often occurs during the detailing process.
8. Stubborn stains and debris safely lifted, dump the water out of both buckets, rinse your wash mitt or towel, and repeat the entire top-to-bottom scrub down procedure one more time with fresh soap and water in each bucket. This second pass will help guarantee that any missed areas are covered, because chances are there are a handful of spots that were either untouched, or require additional attention.

Quick Tip: It's not a bad idea to occasionally blast your wash mitt or microfiber cloth with fresh water from your garden hose or pressure washer during the scrubbing portion of a detailing project. This will help guarantee that contaminants do not compromise the quality of your soapy water, or worse yet, end-up back on your vehicle's exterior.

Step 5:Dry It Up!

Yes, drying has its own step, and no, we're not talking about hauling ass down the highway in a grandiose attempt at air-drying your 1991 Buick Century. We don't give a shit what your automotive shampoo's label says, watermarks and streaks are bound to materialize if you allow a vehicle to fully air dry. Sure, some people will boast about using compressed air or a leaf blower, but they always follow this water dispersing technique with a thorough microfiber wipe-down, knowing full-well that this process will likely require more than one fluffy towel.

Once complete, this wipe-down will have not only removed any potential water spots or pooling issues, but exposed stubborn contaminants as well, earmarking them as top targets for the next weapon in your detailing utility belt:The all-mighty clay bar.

Step 6:Time for a Little Clay Bar Love

If you haven’t used a clay bar or detailing mitt before, you’re in for a one hell of a shock. The clarity and luster they add to a surface are unparalleled, as both products serve the same purpose:Make the surface of your car smoother than Sean Connery at a swinger bar in the 1960s.

But much like popping into a swinger bar for a "buttery nipple," or a tall serving of "sex on the beach," clay bars are not a frequent occurrence. These contaminant removal tools typically only get whipped out for some sweet action on a annual or bi-annual basis, typically just prior to the application of a layer of ceramic coating.

Personally, we prefer a detailing mitt, like the one pictured below, as they can be used multiple times and are easily cleaned after, or during use. Clay, on the other hand, is designed to only be used once, and must be discarded if dropped on the ground. Additionally, a clay mitt fits over your hand, thus making it easier to use and hold onto. They also tend to be much larger, and can therefore cover more surface area.

Regardless of whether you opt for a detailing mitt or a clay bar, both products rely upon a lubricant to help them glide across smooth surfaces, and you should NEVER attempt to utilize one without squirting lube everywhere. Hey if it works in the swinger bar, why not in the garage, right?

Steps to clay barring or detailing a vehicle with a mitt are extremely simple, with the following four steps being the most crucial.

1. Working small areas at a time, saturate the painted surface with your detailing spray or lubricant, and if using a clay mitt spraying its palm surface as well to ensure that it slides effortlessly.
2. Lightly glide the clay mitt across the surface in a cross-hatch pattern. You’ll notice that there is some resistance at first, but as you continue to move the mitt around, you will notice that it becomes easier to maneuver. 이것은 좋은 것입니다. It means that you are removing all sorts of microscopic surface contaminants from your vehicle's exterior.
3. Once you no longer feel any snags, take a clean microfiber towel and wipe-down the area you just went over with the clay bar or mitt. Feel the surface with your finger tips, comparing this freshly scrubbed surface to an area you are about to hit with some clay. there should be a distinct difference in how slick the two surfaces feel.
4. Repeat the above steps on all every portion of the automobile, working one panel or section at a time, and always keeping the surface adequately lubricated.

Quick Nerd Note: Winter sucks. Not just for us humans, but for our automobiles as well. When the roads are treated with deicing products, these chemical-rich compounds cake onto our automobiles, and over time, cause exposed metal surfaces to rust or corrode. In order to negate these risks, people scrub and spray their automobiles on a routine basis, not knowing that rubbing wintry road grime the wrong way can have catastrophic results. So to avoid having a nasty run-in with this "salty subject," be sure to check out our article about protecting vehicles from winter's wrath.

Step 7: What's Up, Buff Stuff?

The processes of polishing, or buffing a vehicle's paintwork can make a huge difference in its overall appearance. That said, you will only have to polish a vehicle when it is deemed absolutely necessary, which typically is during the tail end of a detailing job, or in preparation for the application of a ceramic coating. Using a powered buffer will greatly expedite the process, with pressure being more evenly distributed than a traditional hand-polishing pad, and allows you to select a desired speed on the fly. Just be careful not to focus too intently on one area, or you may damage the vehicle's clear coat.

How to Protect Your Car Exterior

Contaminants safely removed, and all surfaces thoroughly dried and polished, it's time to throw a little armor on that machine, at which point it behooves us to recommend going the ceramic coating route. 왜요? Well first of all, the level of protection a high end ceramic coating offers remains unrivalled, as is its ability to repel water, while offering years of protection. Secondly, you'll be delighted to learn that the majority of the labor involved in the application of a ceramic coating is in the surface prep stage, a procedure that you have just completed!

So while waxes are inexpensive and easy to apply, they typically only last a few weeks before requiring reapplication, with ultra high-end products lasting as little as two to three months.

Ceramic coatings, on the other hand, offer unparalleled protection and shine on a far more permanent basis. Sure, they may require a little bit more elbow grease and time during the application process, and they do indeed cost a bit more, but when considering that they only require reapplication every 2 to 5 years, the value swings ceramic's way every time.

Regardless of which form of surface protectant you choose, wax and ceramic coating products should only be applied to surfaces that are cool to the touch, and should be spread-on with a clean, non-abrasive cloth or pad, well away from sunlight and wind. If you'd like to know more about the importance of having the right environment for detailing and protecting a vehicle, be sure to check out our detailed guide to avoiding ceramic coating mistakes.

Auto Detailing Mistakes You Should Avoid

Speaking of mistakes, there are quite a few detailing blunders one can make on cleaning day. While everyone has their own product preferences and preferred detailing techniques, the mistakes below are the most commonplace, and should be avoided entirely.

Mistake 1:Using the wrong cleaning fabric, or the same fabric for every surface.
The days of scrub brushes and double-sided sponges are about as dead as the popularity of the products being pushed by that "ShamWow Guy." Just get a microfiber mitt and some quality microfiber cloths and call us in the morning. Oh, and don't forget to use different cleaning and drying microfiber products on various areas. The last thing you want to see on that pristinely polished clear coat is some form of nastiness from your tailpipe being smeared across its surface.

Mistake 2:Washing in direct sunlight or when the vehicle is hot.
Most detailing, aftercare, and protective products react poorly when exposed to direct sunlight or a hot body panel, so always work indoors or in the shade. This will also reduce the risk of water spotting and soap residue adhering to surfaces.

Mistake 3:Using household cleaning products or dish soap.
We know that household cleaning product is inexpensive and conveniently located in the kitchen upstairs. We also understand that you are out of detailing shampoo and need a fix fast because you're already six beers in and can't drive. But there's a reason why automotive shampoo was invented, and why dish soap still has the word "dish" in it, not "car." This shit will eat-up your clear coat faster than that Kobayashi dude at a hot dog manufacturing plant. So if you have to choose between waiting it out and detailing your ride another day, or scrubbing the entire vehicle with dish soap, you should choose the prior of the two.

Mistake 4:Using the same bucket for soap and rinsing.
You should ALWAYS use two buckets when washing a car, and NEVER just one. The first should be filled with sudsy car shampoo, the other with safely sourced water for rinsing.
Your dirty wash mitt or microfiber cloth should always go in the pure H20 bucket before being dipped in the soapy solution to get reduce cross-contamination.

Mistake 5:Cleaning your wheels and tires last.
When you wash a wheel or a tire, chances are you're splashing road grime and brake dust all over the surrounding surfaces. Wash, scrub, and rinse your rollers and rubber first, and then move on to the rest of the vehicle. You can always hit them one last time with some detailing chemicals and a microfiber cloth for that finishing touch at the end of the detailing process.

Parting Shots

When the detailing task is complete, and your vehicle has been meticulously scrubbed from top to bottom, you are going to do what every detailer in history has done. You are going to stand back and inspect your work. Will you be proud of all of your hours of toil? Or will you be ashamed by what has transpired? Only you have the power to turn a perfectly well thought-out detailing experience into a complete catastrophe, so play by the rules, and no one's clear coat will get hurt.

As for the average driver, all of these aforementioned procedures, precautions, and products may seem a bit... extreme. But for those looking to fully eliminate harmful contaminants and protect their mode of transportation, there is but one option:A complete car detailing. Perhaps the daily commuter down the street was right after all, and a full detailing procedure is a bit extreme. Extremely smart, that is.